Automatic gearbox

One of our services is the repair of automatic transmissions of all types, service and replacement of oils and filters in automatic transmissions, sales of filter kits for all ATMs and sales of parts for all ATMs. Here you can find out information related to the specified service.

1. What is an automatic transmission?

In short, this is the part of the car that will lift your hair (of course if you have it) on your head in the event of a breakdown, and the very thought of the costs that await you will take the curses you forgot long ago and bring you to the brink of nervous breakdown. Why am I writing this? I know you’re not reading this out of curiosity (you can certainly spend your time smarter) but some of the gearbox problems are in sight. So if you really want to keep wasting time- let's move on. For the automatic transmission, we will use the abbreviation AT (comes from the English - automatic transmission), we of course use the name automatic transmission.

Thus, it is a device that transmits engine power to the wheels of a vehicle mechanically by a hydraulic process controlled by a computer via valves housed in a common housing (valve body) which by leaking oil in various combinations transmit the required power (change gears). Very simple and clear, right? The engine mechanically transfers power to a converter (centrifuge-converter - in fact a clutch) that has oil in it and uses a system of rotation of turbines using centrifugal force to produce enough hydraulic power for further operation, operation of the oil pump, etc.

If you really want to go into details (I think there is no need to write what others have written a long time ago) I would gladly recommend that you ask a question on your browser - What is automatic transmission? On the first page, YOU TUBE will open, which will show far more than necessary with animation, with a really brilliant approach to the AT function, and give all possible cross-sections and functions of individual circuits.

Regular maintenance means changing the oil, internal and external filters, electrical connections - connectors, seals of all kinds, possibly with some AT filter attachment depending on the shape of the AT crankcase. IMPORTANT - if it changes, EVERYTHING changes or it is better not to waste time, it is also important to control the oil level in the AT, especially if you notice oil droplets under the vehicle (oil is in most cases light red transparent color) or notice them on the crankcase AT (If you are buying a vehicle and there are drops of oil on the crankcase AT, immediately run away because your feet are carrying you and think about something other than buying a vehicle that will surely bring problems soon, so that there is no misunderstanding - run away). If you also tolerate dripping oil from the engine (poor oil seal, seals, etc.) on the AT there is no justification for any traces of oil loss.

Along with this question comes the claim that oil should not be changed in AT !! Namely, various manufacturers state various data, from the fact that regular maintenance is performed every 20,000 km to those who claim that maintenance is not necessary at all (the latter can be called geniuses - and maybe they are on the verge of a perpetual motion patent). The truth is, as always, somewhere in the middle. Here I express my opinion (and where did I get that right?) And I will try to present it in the most acceptable way, and as a basis I take many years of experience in digging in cars from my father's garage to professional engagement in cars, of course with a lot of professional literature, studying , consultations, seminars, trainings from various manufacturers until today, when, thanks to His Majesty, the Internet, you can enter the problem of car assemblies in a targeted manner. By looking for data and opinions in this way, the most accurate data will be found most easily - so that you don't bother too much, I will try to do this part for AT for you. Let's remember the first and most important - oil.

P.S. Among the BEST QUALITY and DURABLE AT are those produced by GM (didn't the Americans invent and mass-produce automatic transmissions?) And MERCEDES. Both of these manufacturers prescribe REGULAR AND MANDATORY servicing of AT. Smart enough.

AT oils come under different commercial names, certainly the most famous is DEXRON (R) which is essentially the standard prescribed by Hydra Matic (the largest manufacturer of AT) developed by GENERAL MOTORS, FORD calls it MERCON (R) , we also have the ALLISON C-4 (for working machines). These names are usually accompanied by numbers that indicate certain stages in the development of AT and oil production technology, noting that higher numbers are suitable for replacement or mixing with lower numbers (this is important when changing oil or if production of one of the product groups stops).

Other manufacturers who associate one of the listed commercial names with their name means that they are certified to meet all the basic requirements and to be able to sell their products under that name. Buy such products without thinking. This is followed by the largest group of manufacturers (the cheapest products) which hides behind the name ATF with various numerical accessories and which is used for everything that works automatically and on the basis of hydraulics.

On the back of the product they will inform you that the product meets these and those standards, but they sell it under that name because it sounds nicer to them, and it does not occur to them to write that they do not have a license because the product does not meet the requirements. There is talk on the sidelines (sellers) that they do not want to pay enormous sums for product licensing, which in the end results in them having to charge you for it, and they take the most care of your wallet.

Then we have car manufacturers who convince you that you have to use only their oils for their ATs, the commercial names are usually ATF or an abbreviation that stands for their brand with a proud number next to it, who knows why - maybe because they are God-given and chosen and have their own strictly kept secret accessories that are found only in their products, which of course results in a price that is often up to 60% higher than the same product that is the same if not better quality, and comes from a licensed manufacturer. A little more about oils and done. AT oils are high quality synthetic oils in which we distinguish two basic types. The first oils whose base are high-quality derivatives from mineral oils (polyalphaolifins) which are extracted from the purest form of the base - a pair of oil derivatives.

Others are pure synthetic oils (polyalkyleneglycol) which are obtained by combining and breaking down molecules of base oils of plant and animal origin which are then combined depending on the requirements of the manufacturer AT. In both cases, we imagine large laboratories in which strange people in white coats move, who, with good salaries, try countless cocktails before putting them into operation. Here is just another overview of the evolution of ATF oil through the commercial names first DEXRON (R), eighties and nineties DEXRON II (R), DEXRON IIE (R), DEXRON III (R) and since 2005 comes DEXRON VI (R).

Take these products as fundamental sources of quality for all ATs, everyone else either goes hand in hand or simply as bad students - they rewrite. It always remains the rule a higher number is suitable for replacement or mixing with a smaller - vice versa - no way. (Of course from the same manufacturer.) Basic characteristics that the oil must meet: minimize friction inside AT components, have the highest possible boiling point while maintaining oil stability, anticorrosive properties, good fluctuation at low temperatures, oxidizing properties, good ability to leach fine particles, no may foam, etc.

Which oil to buy for refilling or replacement? In any case, what is stated by the manufacturer or what is licensed for the same commercial name. Particular attention should be paid to European car manufacturers that have very high oil prices, information on the source of these oils and other manufacturers of the same can be found on the Internet, look for them simply by type of car or AT - paying attention to the year of manufacture. Note - the same oils from the same manufacturers in America cost 5 times less than in Europe.

Everyone says differently. Let’s take one European example, here let it be a BMW that until recently required regular AT service every 25,000 km or 3 years (whichever comes first). Then BMW decided that the costs of regular maintenance of vehicles during the warranty period are borne by them - a commendable commercial trick to attract customers (recently there are many such offers from various manufacturers, especially for vehicles used for commercial purposes).

And now it happens that the oil is changed every 80,000 km and suddenly, overnight, the oils have become better, the materials more resistant. I leave the conclusion to you. Lately, they have gone so far as to use the term 'life time', although even in small letters the term is not explained, and in free translation it means never or never change the oil but the whole AT - like drunken millionaires (of course when 'life time' passes - and that is after 1, 5, 10 or 15 years ???).

Now let's take the Americans, for example GENERAL MOTORS, as an example, they recently used the term 25,000 - 35,000 km (depending on the model). With the arrival of the new generation of DEXRON VI (R) oils, this interval is doubled, referring to AT produced from 2006 onwards. So they require AT maintenance. For the average consumer, it is most interesting that BMW significantly uses ATs made in GM, ie the same ATs. Again, draw your own conclusions.

I would conclude this brief presentation with a personal recommendation. Maintain your AT, it will work longer, better, you will achieve higher fuel efficiency, driving will be more comfortable, without jerks, vibrations and other inconveniences caused by damaged AT. Service intervals should be every 50,000 km for newer vehicles or a maximum of 3 years. Three years is the recommended period for the use of oil, those that stand longer than three years on a shelf - DO NOT use because they also lose their declared properties after that time.

Assuming that the oil i can last as long as the AT lasts (whatever that means) there are many factors that will shorten both the life of the oil and the AT - one of the main ones is the overheating of the AT. Here I will especially emphasize what the statistics inexorably show, and that is that 9 out of 10 AT failures result from overheating of the oil (that is as much as 90%), ie driving in the temperature limit range which inevitably results in an AT failure, usually severe. is irreparable and requires replacement with a new one. At AT service the oil is changed, the filter (if AT has a sieve - it is not changed but only washed, if it is not damaged, and if it is available at all - with most models it is deep inside), then the crankcase seal depending on the type, some of cork, rubber, plastic or none at all - then a silicone black sealant resistant to oil and high temperatures is applied. In newer types of AT since the beginning of 2000. we find filters that are built into the crankcase AT and completely changes the entire crankcase with the filter, which of course has its price.

Check the quality of the oil yourself, using the oil dipstick (if you find it at all, or if it exists at all - some of the manufacturers do not allow you to control the oil level ???, apply a drop of oil on a paper towel, the oil must be clean red and on the towel must spread to all sides in concentric circles, it must not have any smell of burnt oil or a darker shade than light red.Enough to conclude about the quality of the oil.The three basic rules when it is necessary to change the oil are if:

» the oil has a darker or brown tint

» the oil smells like burnt oil

» the oil has bubbles in it

These three factors do not necessarily mean poor oil quality, but you certainly won't change them make a mistake.

The easiest way is to take it to a car repairman. Suppose he knows (most service technicians refuse this service due to inexperience, process duration and low earnings) the procedure, has the right equipment, has quality oil for your AT, has the right filter, sealant. Check the above, and if all the conditions are not met, look for another.

It is important to note here that in our environment ATs have no tradition, they are yet to come. So far, these have been toys of the fairer sex, lazy drivers, rich people who do not know how to play, and drive expensive cars, or rather it is an economic and technological problem of the European market because hand on heart who has ever fought against anything that does automatically.

One should know that changing the oil is not as easy as with the engine and that it requires some knowledge, remember what we have said so far. Let's see what the costs are. Quality oil, depending on the manufacturer, ranges from 10 - 30 € / liter, with some models the price goes up to 70 € / liter. (if the manufacturer requires an oil bearing his name the prices are from 20 - 80 €). Filter set, seal depending on AT from 25 - 80 €. Crankcase with built-in filter from 150 to 300 € Service minimum 60 €.

Small consumables 10 €. Silicone sealant 15 - 25 €. Depending on the type of AT, it turns out that the minimum cost of AT service (if we take the average values) is approximately € 250. In our neighboring countries of Western Europe, this amount ranges from 500 to about 1200 €.

There are several types of automatic transmissions, they differ from each other in the way they transfer power from the engine to the AT, or how they change gears.

TIPTRONIC - a term that applies to all automatic transmissions that have the option, with the setting of automatic gear changes controlled by the computer, that the gear change is performed by the driver of his choice independently of the computer.

Appears under various names (STEPTRONIC, SPORTMATIC, GEARSHIFT, TOUCHSHIFT, S-TRONIC, etc ...) depending on the car manufacturer.